Your most important shirt - the Oxford

Why the Oxford shirt is the most important shirt in your closet

The history of the Oxford shirt stretches from Scotland to India, via the American East Coast, to its place as a staple in many wardrobes today. Like many textile innovations, the Oxford weave was first developed in Scotland. It was originally intended for formal dress shirts, but its durability and accessible price helped it reach a wider audience. The shirt also became popular among Englishmen stationed in India, who appreciated its practical qualities while playing polo. Its breathable fabric made it well suited to the warm climate, keeping the wearer cool while still looking well dressed.

The Oxford shirt in the States - the introduction of button down

When it was introduced in the United States, the Oxford shirt quickly became associated with the Ivy League and preppy style. There, it was worn as the formal dress shirt it was originally intended to be. The button-down collar also became more widely known at the time, a practical detail first used by English polo players to keep the collar in place. John E. Brooks brought the idea back from England and began producing the first oxford cloth button-down shirt, or OCBD, which remains one of the most popular Oxford shirt styles today.

In the United States, the shirt’s popularity came from its versatile character. It worked just as well with a blazer and tie as it did for more relaxed summer wear. The fabric also combines durability with flexibility, and its slightly heavier construction makes it less prone to wrinkling. That quality is part of what makes the Oxford shirt so versatile.

To sum up

Versatility, durability, and the ability to look well dressed in a wide range of settings are qualities rarely found in a single garment. We value clothes that work hard in a wardrobe and still look good. The Scots knew it, the English knew it, and the Americans knew it. So do those who keep a few Oxford shirts in their wardrobe.

How to wear the Oxford shirt

Given the versatility of the Oxford shirt, it is almost easier to say when not to wear it. The sturdiness of the fabric makes it a good choice on cooler days, while its breathability keeps it comfortable in warmer weather too. A well-tailored Oxford shirt works well in the office. It is also a strong choice when you want to look well dressed without feeling too formal, such as at family gatherings or after-work occasions with friends. You may want to choose another shirt when the dress code is more formal, for example at a wedding or an important business meeting. Keep in mind the Oxford shirt’s origins as a sports garment. As mentioned earlier, the Oxford shirt pairs well with a tie. If you are wearing a classic button-down collar, a smaller tie knot is usually the better choice. With a cutaway collar, you can opt for a larger knot, especially if you are wearing it with a blazer for a more formal look.

The Oxford weave

What defines an Oxford shirt is its weaving technique. It uses a simple basket weave, where two weft threads cross over two warp threads. Traditionally, it is woven with threads in two colours, one of them white, which creates its distinctive texture. The surface is slightly rougher than, for example, poplin. A smoother variation is called pinpoint Oxford, which is woven with a finer yarn.

Discover the versatile Oxford shirt

The Oxford shirt is a true classic, appreciated for both its comfort and its range of colour options. Made to your measurements at Tailor Store, it becomes an even more reliable wardrobe staple. Start with the essentials - an Oxford shirt in classic white or light blue is always a safe choice.

Not sure which Oxford shirt to choose for different occasions? We have selected three Oxford shirts, each with its own character and suited to different settings.

Gondomar

Gondomar is a versatile Oxford shirt with a classic business-casual feel. The weave has a distinct full, matte texture. If you are looking for an Oxford shirt that works well in both dressed-up and casual settings, Gondomar is a reliable choice.

Benidorm

Benidorm is a clear favourite, thanks to its soft, brushed surface. The base weave is the same as Gondomar, but Benidorm has a more flexible structure, which makes it well suited to casual occasions. The brushed fabric also makes this Oxford shirt a good choice for colder seasons, with a naturally warmer feel. Add a button-down collar for a refined finishing touch.

Ramalde

Ramalde is our Oxford shirt in French Oxford. Its thin, fine weave makes it a strong choice as a business shirt. The fabric has a diamond-shaped texture with a subtle lustre, making it more flexible than a classic Oxford weave. It is an exclusive fabric with a particularly smooth feel.